Spanish Lavender Plant Growing Guides

There are over 40 distinct types of lavender, with Spanish lavender plant (Lavandula stoechas) being one of them. Unlike its other cousins, it develops as a low shrub with a distinctive blossom form that differs from the others. It is distinguished by its erect petals that develop at the top of the flower heads, giving the flowers a rabbit-like look. Spanish lavender is native to Spain.

Spanish lavender may be found in a variety of colors, depending on the grower. Pink, purple, and white blossoms are common. Decorative little gray-green leaves decorate the stems of these plants, which grow in a compact spherical form. Spanish lavender, as opposed to other lavender cultivars, is more heat resistant. Despite the fact that this perennial is deer resistant, it is also considered harmful to animals, so keep this in mind if your pets spend a lot of time outside unattended in your garden.

Care for Spanish Lavender Plant

Spanish lavender is a low-maintenance plant that doesn’t need much attention once it has established itself. This cultivar is more heat-resistant than other common lavender varieties, which is a plus. It grows well in pots, receives lots of sunlight, and does not need a lot of attention in terms of maintenance. Spanish lavender does not have many pests or illnesses to contend with, but it may be infected by spittlebugs or infected by fungal infections. It is resistant to deer damage.

• Light

In order to survive and produce its fragrant flowers, Spanish lavender needs full sun, much like the other lavender varieties.

• Soil

Spanish lavender requires a soil that is sandy, gritty, and well-drained in order to thrive and develop lushly. Spanish lavender thrives in somewhat wet soil, but any standing water or poorly draining soil would spell doom for these plants. It is important to improve your soil with sand or gravel before growing this herb if it is comprised mostly of clay.

• Water

Spanish lavender, like other lavender cultivars, does not need a lot of water and is able to endure times of drought. The ideal growth circumstances, on the other hand, need a little damp soil, therefore water these plants before the earth becomes fully dry. It is preferable to water at the soil level rather than at the leaf level in order to minimize difficulties with fungal infections.

• Temperature and humidity

Originally from the Mediterranean, Spanish lavender grows well and thrives in hot, dry conditions. It thrives in USDA plant hardiness zones 8a to 9b and is a better option for warmer temperature zones than other commonly grown lavender cultivars. It is, however, not as cold-hardy as other lavender cultivars and must be grown in an area where winter temperatures do not fall below 10 degrees Fahrenheit in the winter months.

• Fertilizer

Originally from places with sandy, poor-quality soil, Spanish lavender grows best in soil that is low in nutrients and aerates well. As a result, Spanish lavender does not need fertilizer and, in fact, typically performs better when not fertilized.

• Spanish Lavender variety
  

1. Strawberry Ruffles is distinguished by its ruffled petals and brilliant pink blossoms, which are reminiscent of strawberries.
2. Silver Anouk is a two-toned purple flowering plant with silver-gray leaves and silver-gray blooms.
3. Kew Red has deep pinkish-red flowers with light pink petals that are crowned with a pale pink center.
4. Alba The flowers of this cultivar are white.

• Pruning

Spanish lavender, like other lavender varieties, may branch more heavily if they are pruned, resulting in a denser, thicker plant overall. However, extreme caution must be used in order to prevent overpruning of these plants. If you want to prune lavender correctly, just remove around one-third of the plant’s growth after it has produced its initial flush of blooms. Harvesting those sweet-smelling flower buds is also at its best during this time period. After the second flush of blossoms has faded, prune the plant’s growth to approximately one-third of its original size.

Spanish Lavender Plant Propagation

Spanish lavender may be propagated through cuttings, which is a simple and gratifying process. A pair of sharp garden snips, a tiny pot, well-draining soil, a plastic bag, and a rubber band are all you’ll need to get started. Then adhere to the following instructions:

• Cuttings should be taken in the spring or autumn. Aim to eliminate a cutting that does not have any blooms by snipping it where the new growth joins the old.
• Cut away any leaves that are present on the bottom portion of the cutting.
• Using gentle pressure, plant the stripped end into well-draining soil. Maintain the soil level at or slightly below the point when the leaves begin to appear.
• In order to keep out moisture, place the plastic bag over the cutting. Rubber band it tightly around the pot to keep it in place.
• Maintain the soil’s moisture until the plant has established itself. By gently pulling on the cutting, you can see whether there are any roots. When there is opposition, roots have begun to develop. Once this has occurred, the plastic bag should be removed.
• Alternative method is to submerge your cuttings in a glass of water until roots begin to develop. Make certain that the water does not seep into the leaves. After the cutting has developed robust roots, it should be planted in soil.

How to Start the Plant from Spanish Lavender Seed

Spanish lavender may also be cultivated from seed, according to the USDA. Here’s how to go about it:

• When Spanish lavender seeds are started inside, they provide the finest results. Plant the seeds in tiny pots with well-draining soil and gently cover them with earth.
• Maintain a cool environment for the seeds. Check the soil on a regular basis, making sure to keep it wet.
• Germination should take place in around 2 weeks.
• Keep the seedlings in a bright, well-lit area.
• As soon as the seedlings are large enough to handle, transplant them into individual pots or plant them in the garden in the following spring.

Spanish Lavender Plant Care & Repotting

Spanish lavender thrives in pots and does very well. When selecting a container, be certain that it has several drainage holes and that water can readily drain from it. Because a potted plant does not have access to subterranean water supplies, potted lavender will need more frequent watering than lavender that is grown in a traditional garden setting. When the soil appears to be dry, water thoroughly and on a regular basis to keep it moist.

These plants often need repotting on an annual basis. Gently tilt the pot onto its side and tap around the outside of the pot to do this. The root system will be loosened as a result of this. Using your fingers, gently take out the lavender and plant it in its new container. Fill the container halfway with sandy, well-draining soil and set it somewhere bright and sunny.

• Overwintering

Growth Spanish lavender in the right growing zones does not need any additional effort to ensure that it survives the winter months. It is simple to apply an additional layer of mulch around the plant to assist in insulating the root system. Reduce the amount of water you use and only water when the winter is very dry. Moving potted lavender to a protected location away from extreme temperatures or winds is recommended.

How to Get Spanish Lavender to Bloom

Spanish lavender is renowned for its distinctive blossoms, which have been characterized as purple pineapples or as having rabbit ears, among other things. There are two enormous flushes of flowers each year, and they have a lovely lavender perfume to go with with them. The blooming of Spanish lavender starts in the spring and continues through the summer.

Planting Spanish lavender in broad sunlight can help it blossom more profusely. Throughout the year, deadhead wasted flowers and trim the plant twice a year. After the initial flush of flowers, the first pruning should be carried out on the plant. Remove around one-third of the previous year’s growth in order to produce a second flush of blooms the following year. Then repeat the procedure to prepare the plant for the next autumn season.