10 Interesting Facts of Growing Chilies

Facts of Growing Chilies – So, you want to make your own chili sauce? Awesome! Capsicum peppers and chillies need different circumstances than other bell peppers (Capsicum annuum).

Chilies grow easily. There are 195 Capsicum species, including 21 variations of C. annuum. Tabasco and Habanero are spicy peppers. green, yellow, red, and purple.

Capsicum annuum may produce little or big, mild or spicy, spherical or long and slim berry fruit. Some ornamentals have spicy fruit. This post focuses on the hotter Capsicum types and shares 10 facts about cultivating them.

1. Chilies are nightshades (Solanaceae)

Chilies, potatoes, tomatoes, and eggplants are all connected (and tobacco). Solanaceae has 85 genera and 2800 shrubby or creeping plants, shrubs, and trees.

Capsicum’s vegetable-fruit-berry group interests us. Commercial crops grow in hoop houses, polytunnels, and greenhouses. Capsicum is photoperiod-insensitive, or day-neutral (though this is more accurately termed night-neutral).

“Short-day” (long-night) plants need lengthy periods of darkness. Plants that bloom when the day is under 12 hours (or have more than half their days in darkness)

Chrysanthemums, poinsettias, and Christmas cacti are short-day plants. More than 12 hours of light (street lights) every day prevents bloom production.

Day-neutral plants include potatoes, tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers. Another commonality between nightshade plants is the consequence of excessive nitrogen: capsicum will develop huge leaves and no fruits, while tomatoes and potatoes won’t produce tubes.

Corn, cucumbers, sunflowers, beans, and peas are day-neutral. This hopefully clarifies photoperiodism.

2. Cultivating difficult chilies

Growing peppers is difficult. No light levels are involved. Temperature, nitrogen treatment timing, calcium, phosphorus, watering, and pests and diseases are crucial.

Peppers share pests and illnesses with nightshades. Pests include aphids, whiteflies, cutworms, pepper maggots, and Colorado potato beetles. Verticillium wilt and mosaic virus create yellow-green mosaics and wilt in this plant.

3. Sun heat is preferred by hot peppers over sunlight.

Peppers won’t grow properly below 55 °F (12.7 °C). Plants require temperatures ranging from 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 to 23.8 degrees Celsius) for at least three months of the year, between transplanting and fruit development.

After flower pollination, the fruit should be green in 45 to 55 days and multicolored two weeks afterwards.

Most commercial enterprises choose polytunnels and greenhouses because of their climatic sensitivity. Habanero (C. sinense) is a perennial growing in tunnels.

Peppers are daylight-neutral, so darkness does not affect flower and fruit production. Light is vital for leaf growth, photosynthesis, and plant nutrient generation and use.

Flowers’ growth and activity need light, while flower initiation requires darkness. Tunnel growers can control light for the best yield.

4. Chilies for medicinal purposes

Capsicum annuum is a source of popular sweet peppers and fiery chilis. anti-oxidant, antibacterial, and antiviral.

E. coli, E. aerogenes, E. cloacae, P. stuartii, and P. aeruginosa were all killed by E. annuum fruit methanol extract in a good to moderate way.

Capsicum frutescens is sometimes considered a C. annuum species. It’s used to heal wounds, male virility, toothache pain, coughs, asthma, sore throats, stomach aches, and seasickness.

C. frutescens methanol extract has specific antibacterial activity against E. coli, E. aerogenes, E. cloacae, K. pneumoniae, and P. stuartii.

5. Calcium prevents blossom end rot

Blossom end rot is caused by a calcium deficit in the fruit, but not in the soil or on the plant. Blossom end rot may develop even with enough soil calcium.

A continuous supply of calcium is needed for proper fruit growth during fruit set. Roots absorb calcium from the soil and transmit it via the xylem, which also carries water to the plant’s growth sites.

This requires soil water. When roots lose water, they lose calcium.

Calcium from leaves can’t enter the fruit via the phloem. Foliar-applied calcium isn’t absorbed by the fruit skin quickly. Ineffective foliar calcium applications

Consistent soil moisture prevents blossom end rot. Keep the soil moist between waterings.

Timer-controlled drip irrigation ensures continual watering. Mulch or pine straw prevents soil moisture from evaporating.

Hoeing or tilling near established plants’ roots will decrease their water absorption. Before planting, assess the soil for calcium and follow lime and fertilizer recommendations.

6. Nitrogen grows plants but not fruit

Nitrogen application must be timed with pepper crops. Apply 7.3 ounces of nitrogen per 100 square feet to chile peppers that are being watered by drip for a green harvest in mid-August.

First, 1.47 pounds of nitrogen per 100 square feet is pre-planted.

Second, when green flower buds form in early June, 0.735 ounces of nitrogen per 100 square feet are injected weekly for eight weeks.

5.9 ounces of nitrogen per 100 sq ft are pumped weekly. These increments provide eight choices.

Using a nitrate meter, you can guarantee you deliver no more nitrogen than required at each application during growth. This minimizes production costs and meets crop nitrogen needs.

7. Temperature range of 15 degrees

Nighttime temperatures of over 55 °F (12.7 °C) are ideal for peppers. Temperatures between 60- and 75-degrees Fahrenheit (15.5 and 23.8 degrees Celsius) should be maintained for at least three months between transplanting and fruit growth.

After flower pollination, the fruit should be green in 45 to 55 days and multicolored two weeks afterwards.

5mm deep in flats, peat pots, or cell packs 8 to 10 weeks before transplanting outdoors. Seeds germinate best at 80 F or above. It won’t germinate below 55 degrees.

Indoor plants should be maintained at 70°F during the day and 65°F at night. Lack of light causes spindly, unproductive transplants.

Don’t hurry outside planting. Cold temperatures may permanently damage plants.

A few days at 60°F to 65°F with less water will help harden the transplant and reduce transplant shock. Over-hardened plants grow slowly after transplantation.

Two to three weeks after the last frost, lay out plants. Plant them 12 to 24 inches apart, in 24 to 36-inch rows, or in 14 to 16-inch-wide raised beds.

Black plastic and/or row covers speed soil warming and early growth. Row covers should be applied carefully to prevent overheating and flower drop.

If you don’t want to use black plastic, put mulch around established plants after the soil has warmed up to keep water in and weeds out.

If it’s too hot or cold, peppers won’t set fruit. Low or high nighttime temperatures may prevent fruit set.

8. Chilies grown in containers thrive

After herbs and tomatoes, peppers are a good container plant. You may need to find a greenhouse that produces these types or start them yourself. Choose containers or the compact variety.

14-inch-deep pots are ideal. Use only larger-pot potting media. Leaf mold compost, coconut coir, and perlite are my favorites. Too much peat moss makes the roots compact and reduces the amount of water they can hold. This keeps the plants from growing as well as they could.

Good peppers need regular feedings. Most potting soil has a two-week fertilizer charge; beyond that, plants’ growth slows. Start by adding pelleted, timed-release fertilizer depending on pot size. Begin fertilizing once a week two weeks after planting.Use 1-1-1 fertilizer till the plants bloom (i.e., 20-20-20). After blooming, use a high-potassium fertilizer. This includes most tomato fertilizers.

Fish emulsion, green sand, kelp meal, and bone meal may yield similar results. As plants grow, feed them more. Apply timed-release fertilizer every 10-12 weeks. Even with a robust conventional fertilizer program, seaweed-based supplements are recommended.

Aphids are the most common pest on peppers. Ladybird beetles and their larvae arrive shortly before aphids overtake plants. Aphid beetles will quickly lower aphid populations. Using a pesticide during this period will kill beneficial insects (ladybird beetles).

Peppers don’t have many illnesses, save bacterial spotting, which causes rotting. Once the fruit starts to develop, use a copper-based fungicide/bactericide every 7–10 days.

Harvest mature peppers. This timely harvest allows the plant to produce more fruit. Rotten or overripe fruit will affect the other fruit’s quality. For best taste, let the fruit ripen on the plant.

Pathogens spread easily while handling moist plants. Avoid plants with wet leaves.

9. Chilies are amazing ornamental plants

Peppers are beautiful decorative plants with tasty fruit. Favorites are below.

Chinese Five-Color

This Chinese Five Color is a show stopper with its purple and ivory tones. These peppers are small and easy to grow. As they grow, they turn cream, purple, yellow, orange, and red.

Chinese Five-Colour Pepper plants grow over 4 feet tall and yield over 100 peppers each. Raw or cooked (boiling, stir-frying, roasting), they are delicious. Salsa, dips, and spicy sauces are possible.

Pepperfish

The vibrant young, cream-colored fish hot chili peppers lend a spice to creamy seafood dishes. This gem has jalapeo and cayenne-like heat and taste. The fish pepper plant is prolific, simple to grow in gardens and pots, and appealing with its variegated leaves and colorful pods.

Fish pepper was used in northern oyster and crab houses. The term “fish pepper” possibly refers to the chile’s use in seafood recipes. Delicious pepper!

Rainbow pepper

Mature peppers are 1 inch long and purple, yellow, orange, and red. The plant’s successive phases produce peppers that appear like Christmas lights. The Bolivian Rainbow pepper has heat like Tobasco and cayenne, yet tastes like a bell pepper with fire.

Fire-and-ice pepper

The Patio Fire & Ice Pepper plant is stunning. Long, upright peppers ripen yellow, orange, and red on the plant. Thin peppers rise upright like flames. The Patio Fire & Ice pepper plant is an ornamental that develops 3–4 inches of delicious peppers.

They’re friendlier than they taste. We don’t know the heat level, but they have a kick that burns your tongue, so be careful. Patio Fire & Ice can embellish your balcony, patio, and garden with their stunning hues. Get these peppers now!

Black Pearl Pepper, Black Prince Pepper, Black Scorpion Tongue, Blue Christmas, Bolivian Rainbow Pepper, Thai Ornamental Pepper.

10. Some enjoy it hot, others don’t

South American “habanero-type” peppers. The brilliantly colored fruits are used as food, spices, and medicine globally. It includes the world-record-holding ‘Carolina Reaper’ pepper.

Because Pepper Joe’s was an original Carolina Reaper vendor, I’m sharing his film with you.

Wilber Scoville invented the Scoville scale. A pharmacist, Scoville, invented a technique to gauge spicy pepper pungency. The Scoville Organoleptic Test uses diluted chili peppers. How many equal parts of sugar water do I need to add to a same-sized crushed chili pepper till there’s no heat?

Wilber Scoville had tasters swallow chili pepper and sugar water mixtures over numerous days until no heat was detected per pepper type. Yes, they sipped till their lips stopped burning from the pepper.

Capsaicinoids provide pungency in plants like chili peppers. Their concentration correlates linearly to the Scoville scale and varies throughout ripening. Chili peppers contain mostly capsaicin.

Since the 1980s, the amount of heat in a spice has been measured by HPLC, which looks at the amount of heat-making capsaicinoids, usually capsaicin.